Everything You Need to Know About How Lip Plumpers Work
Who says you need lip fillers tocreate a more voluminous pout? From overlining with lip liner to various massage and pinch techniques, there’s never been a dull moment when it comes to enhancement of the lips. And now more than ever, thanks to an array of synthetic and often natural ingredients, anyone’s natural lips can be (temporarily) plumped in moments with lip balms, oils, and glosses galore. While TikTok has popularized lip plumping products in recent years, they actually first made waves in the early aughts. Who remembers the TOO FACED Lip Injection Extreme Lip Plumper? Because we definitely do!
So, how does the plumping effect work, exactly? We’re here to break down everything you need to know about the best lip plumper formulas, how to use lip plumpers properly, and any red flags to be aware of. Now, what are you waiting for? Keep reading your way to fuller lips.
Meet the Expert
Brenda Orduno is a professional makeup artist and BEAUTY CREATIONS COSMETICS senior product developer.
Tara KP Troszak is a Los Angeles–based lawyer by day, and freelance MAC COSMETICS artist by night.
What Is Lip Plumper?
The definition of lip plumper is pretty much as it implies. “It’s a product formulated and designed to temporarily enhance the fullness of your lips by giving them a plump, luscious look,” explains makeup artist and product developer Brenda Orduno.
Makeup artist Tara KP Troszak adds, “Some lip plumpers can also be used for smoothness and hydration. They usually come in the form of a lip gloss or lip oil.”
What’s Typically in Lip Plumper?
As we noted above, lip plumpers for lip volume can be derived from both natural and synthetic ingredients. “Common lip plumpers contain ingredients like menthol, cinnamon, peppermint oil, or capsaicin (derived from chili peppers), which cause a temporary swelling effect,” Orduno says. “Some formulas also include hydrating elements like hyaluronic acid or peptides to keep lips smooth and moisturized while simultaneously enhancing volume.”
How Do Lip Plumpers Work?
1. Hyaluronic Acid–Based Lip Plumpers
Hyaluronic acid is often used for lip injections, so it makes sense that it can be applied topically to help keep those lips plump and juicy. Even moreso, if you have sensitive skin, hyaluronic acid, along with other soothing agents and hydrating, nourishing elements (e.g., aloe vera and shea butter) are excellent ingredients to look out for in over-the-counter lip plumpers.
When it comes to lip plumpers with moisture properties, we personally opt for the MAKEUP BY MARIO MoistureGlow Plumping Lip Color and GLOW RECIPE Plum Plump Hyaluronic Gloss Balm. Because after all, what’s a plumped lip if not a juicy one?
2. Capsaicin-Based Lip Plumpers
Going back to what Orduno said earlier, these are derived from actual chili peppers. So, if you get a reaction inside your mouth when you eat them, just imagine having its remnants spread all over your lips with a plumping lip gloss.
“These work by increasing circulation to the lips by creating swelling or irritation,” Troszak says. “It’s kinda crazy when you think about it, right? It’s meant to create a stinging or burning sensation.”
If you’re itching to try the peppery effect, we stand by the POLITE SOCIETY B.I.G. Mouth Lip Plumper in O.G. You will definitely feel and see a difference.
3. Menthol-Based Lip Plumpers
Menthol (or peppermint, ginger, camphor, or cinnamon, to name a few other ingredients with a similar effect) creates a cooling effect and a unique sensorial experience. We especially love the LAWLESS Forget The Filler Lip Plumping Line Smoothing Gloss. It leaves us with a plump, juicy pout just waiting to be smooched. You also can’t go wrong with the ALAMAR Plumping Lip Water, which uses vanillyl butyl ether, a warming agent that creates tingling and plumping.
Are Lip Plumpers Bad for You?
Generally speaking, lip plumpers aren’t known to be bad for you. They are, however, reactive, so depending on your pain tolerance, they may not be for you.
“Like anything, common sense and moderation is key,” Troszak says. “You should be careful and make sure you’re not allergic to any of the ingredients, which is the general rule when trying any new makeup product. I try not to overuse lip plumpers, because they can dry out your lips when used continuously over an extended period of time.”
Orduno agrees that over-the-counter lip plumpers are known to be safe when used as directed, and not to get freaked out by the reactive effects.
“While the tingling sensation and slight swelling they produce can feel uncomfortable to some, these effects are intentional and typically harmless,” she explains. “To ensure a safe and comfortable experience with lip plumpers, it’s important to check the ingredients. When trying a new lip plumper, you should always do a patch test by applying a small amount to the inside of the wrist or corner of your mouth and look out for intense burning, bumps, or rashes.”
How Long Do Lip Plumpers Last?
When it comes to the longevity of lip plumber, it’s assessed on a case-by-case basis, depending on how each individual’s skin reacts to a formula. Generally, though, “The effect of lip plumpers is temporary and usually lasts between one to four hours,” Orduno says.
Final Thoughts on Lip-Plumping Makeup Products
Over-the-counter lip plumpers are a fun, easy, inexpensive way to give your lips a little more luster and pop. There are a variety of types, with some even made from real chili peppers—aimed at intentionally burning or irritating the lips, which causes them to grow. Depending on the formula and your skin’s reactivity, some products may have a greater effect than others. While they’re considered generally safe by experts, there’s a level of discomfort you may have to endure as the product kicks in, and depending on what you use, it can be drying.