What Is Retinol?

“Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and is one of the most studied molecules in skincare science. Retinol does so many incredible things for the skin, including supporting collagen, evening skin tone, refining pores, and curbing breakouts. It is absolutely one of my top favorite ingredients and an essential part of a skincare routine for anyone with acne-prone or congested skin, or anyone who is struggling with hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Rubin. We also know that retinol does all these amazing things by stimulating skin cell turnover, a form of exfoliation, which helps boost collagen and elasticity in skin, improve skin health, and so much more.

What Is a Retinol Sandwich?

Remember the “moisture sandwich” trend that took over your TikTok FYP? Similar to this technique, a retinol sandwich also involves “sandwiching” layers of moisture. “The retinol sandwich method is a method of retinol application that helps reduce irritation and sensitivity from retinol. The idea is to apply a layer of moisturizer, followed by a layer of retinol, followed by a second layer of moisturizer. By applying the retinol product between two layers of moisturizer, you buffer the retinol and reduce the amount of retinol your skin is being exposed to, thus decreasing irritation,” Dr. Rubin tells us. You’ll experience less dryness, redness, and flaking (which sounds great if you already have a sensitive skin type to start). Plus, a little extra hydration also means healthier, more radiant looking skin.

Pros of a Retinol Sandwich

While there are so many pros to using retinol formulations, adding more steps to your skincare routine by way of sandwiching your retinol may seem excessive. But trust us, the benefits are totally worth it. 

1. It Can Help You Commit

For starters, it can help you commit to sticking it through the adjustment period if you are a retinol newbie. Dealing with retinol purging and side effects of retinol use can tempt almost anyone to quit, but adding extra hydration to this step can really ease side effects. Dr. Rubin adds, “The sandwich method can help to reduce irritation from retinol, and would be best for those who are just starting out with retinol or who have dry to sensitive skin.”

2. It Can Help You Adjust

Even better, adding layers of hydration can help your skin adjust to stronger concentrations of retinol by easing the speed at which your skin absorbs it and creating a protective layer between your skin and the retinol.

3. It Can Help Hydrate

By adding more than one layer of moisturizer to your skin, you’re automatically able to benefit from even more hydration, which means waking up smoother, plumper, and more radiant skin.

4. It Can Help With Acne-Prone Skin

If you’re using retinol to help clear up acne, experiencing more breakouts while you get used to the ingredient can be pretty stressful. Adding a barrier between your skin and your retinol can help gently introduce the active ingredient to your skin without increasing existing inflammation. 

What Are the Cons of a Retinol Sandwich?

Besides adding a few extra steps to your skincare routine, there aren’t many downsides to sandwiching your retinol besides what we also mentioned could be a pro (i.e., how it affects the strength of your formula). “Applying retinol between two layers of moisturizer will reduce the concentration of retinol that your skin is being exposed to. While this does reduce irritancy, it likely also reduces efficacy,” Dr. Rubin says. This could either be a good thing for sensitive skin types and dry skin types that need time to adjust to retinol—or a not-so-good thing if you really want to reap the benefits of your retinol at its full strength. In any case, it's always best to work your way up to stronger retinol concentrations. “If you start with too high a concentration of retinol, you may experience dryness, flaking, stinging, redness, burning, or itching. For this reason, I recommend starting with an introductory concentration of retinol (0.1-0.3% is appropriate for beginners), and then increasing your concentration of retinol slowly over time,” Dr. Rubin advises.

How to Try a Retinol Sandwich

Here’s how Dr. Rubin would do it:

1. “In the evening, I would wash my face with a gentle cleanse. 

2. Then to dry skin I would apply a hydrating, skin barrier supportive moisturizer. 

3. I would let the moisturizer "dry down" for a minute or two, then apply a layer of my retinol product. 

4. Then, I would let the retinol "dry down" for a minute or two before applying a final layer of my moisturizer.”

Seems pretty foolproof (and so worth it). If you’re looking for a moisturizer that supports your skin barrier, a formula packed with ceramides and hyaluronic acid is your best bet. We’ve been fans of KOPARI Moisture Whipped Ceramide Cream because it's got both ceramides and hyaluronic acid, plus glycerin (a holy grail humectant that’s super hydrating for your skin). If you’re going to try a retinol sandwich, nighttime is best so that you can allow your skincare to soak in without the addition of SPF or makeup. Pro tip: If you’re also incorporating vitamin C into your routine, be sure to use that in the morning (underneath a good layer of sunscreen).

Our Final Thoughts

If you’ve got commitment issues (because adjusting to retinol can be a rollercoaster), or if you’ve got super sensitive skin, a retinol sandwich seems like an easy, low-maintenance way to get comfortable with using retinol full time. Plus, it’s preventative—who wouldn’t rather attempt to prevent and soothe irritation from using retinol in real time rather than deal with the side effects once they’ve gotten hard to manage? As always, if you’re experiencing intense side effects that aren’t calmed by upping hydration, be sure to see your dermatologist for advice (you may just need to take a break, space out your usage, or make adjustments to the concentration you’re using). Overall, we’re into it. Why? Because the benefits of committing to using retinol are endless. Just make sure to defer to your derm and follow their advice when it comes to using retinol the right way.