Every Skincare Ingredient You Should (and Shouldn’t!) Use With Vitamin C

Benefits of Vitamin C In Skincare

According to Bryce Anthony, an esthetician and skincare pro in New York City, “Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is a naturally occurring antioxidant that increases photoprotection in the skin by increasing cell survival following UV exposure.” Using it daily underneath SPF not only helps defend skin against free radical harm (environmental stressors), but it also works to help brighten the appearance of skin over time and help reduce overall pigmentation. 

Skin expert Hallie Font prefers a formula that contains “tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD)—a lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that penetrates the skin deeper and more effectively than other common forms. THD is much less irritating to the skin due to its superior absorption.” The DR. BRANDT SKINCARE C Scription is formulated with 20% THD ascorbate, which means it’s less irritating and more powerful than some other forms of vitamin C you might find. Dark spots, fine lines, and free radicals are no match for this potent vitamin C serum.

Esthetician Kyoko Getz prefers L-ascorbic acid, otherwise known as pure vitamin C. Getz shares that while the formula is potent, “it requires low pH formulations (normally less than pH 3.5, which can cause irritation).” This means that those with sensitive skin types can benefit from “starting with a lower-concentration formulation.” We love the BEAUTYSTAT Universal C Skin Refiner because the stabilized L-ascorbic acid gives us the brightest complexion and helps even skin tone to make us all the more radiant.

Best Ingredients to Pair With Vitamin C:

• Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is adored by the masses for its hydration and moisturizing benefits while also plumping the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. As luck would have it, the ingredient combination of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid offers some yummy skin benefits too. The acid works to boost vitamin C’s antioxidant properties and helps reduce signs of aging. “When mixed together, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C offer a balance of hydration, sun protection, and reduced hyperpigmentation,” says Salakai and de Sadeleer. We love that the LYS BEAUTY Think Bright Glow + Hydrate Serum with Vitamin C & Hyaluronic Acid combines these two powerhouses for a serum that brightens and hydrates all in one.

• Niacinamide: Niacinamide is known to help reduce inflammation and work in tandem with vitamin C to improve skin texture, appearance, and overall brightness.  We love that the INNISFREE Green Tea Vitamin C Serum also contains niacinamide so you can tackle all of the above issues at once with just one serum.

• Sunscreen: Even though vitamin C does help to prevent the effects of UVA and UVB rays that naturally come in contact with the skin whenever you head outside, vitamin C doesn’t have the ability to help prevent a sunburn. That’s why you should never wear vitamin C without the added protective layer of sunscreen.

• Ferulic Acid: Ferulic acid and vitamin C are basically the skincare equivalent of PB&J—they’re an unstoppable duo, especially if you’re looking for anti-aging powers. “These two antioxidants amplify each other’s anti-aging benefits and ability to fight free radical damage,” share Gwen Salakaia and Ani de Sadeleer, co-founders of SENSELF. The beauty founders also note that ferulic acid is often combined with vitamin C “to make it more shelf-stable (vitamin C degrades quickly, especially when exposed to sunlight).” The HIGHER EDUCATION SKINCARE GPA Vitamin C Serum already combines these two active ingredients for you so you don’t need to incorporate separate products. We use this serum to the last drop every single time.

• Vitamin E: Seeking double the antioxidants to fight sun damage? Swipe right on a vitamin E serum and pair it with your vitamin C serum immediately. Salakaia and de Sadeleer share that “both work to counteract free radical damage from UV exposure.” While vitamins C and E can work together to protect your skin from UV damage, you should still use sunscreen when using these products to provide the necessary SPF protection. Think of vitamins C and E as an extra layer of sun protection from the sun that sunscreen alone can’t provide. The ODACITÉ Brightening Serum, Vitamin C and E + Hyaluronic Acid comes with a host of big benefits. Say goodbye to bright spots and discoloration thanks to the blend of active ingredients in this serum.

• Peptides: Peptides are a rising star in the skincare world, mainly for their anti-aging properties. Peptides help boost the production of collagen in your skin, which promotes elasticity and a plumper, firmer complexion. When used with vitamin C, peptides can help smooth your skin texture. The DERMA E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum not only blends vitamin C and peptides, but it also mixes in vitamin E to help promote collagen growth and leave your skin looking dewy.

• Bakuchiol: Retinols/retinoids and vitamin C don’t mix (more on that below), but you know what does? Bakuchiol, which is a natural alternative to retinol. “Bakuchiol is a great ingredient for stimulating collagen production and is an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial,” says Getz. And when bakuchiol and retinol are paired together? Get ready for the glow of your life with this skin-brightening team. Whether you want to give bakuchiol a try or have been using it for years, our go-to is the NEOGEN DERMALOGY Real Bakuchiol Firming Serum. The firmness we get from this product leaves us feeling glowy all day long.

Ingredients to Avoid Mixing With Vitamin C

 1. Retinol

Retinol and retinoids should not be mixed with vitamin C for a number of reasons. They are day and night—vitamin C works best during the day to protect your skin from free radicals and retinol is best used at night because it makes the skin photosensitive. Translation? You may be increasing your risk of sun damage by using retinol during the day. Plus, retinol is known to help boost collagen production and increase skin cell turnover, which many claim happens more efficiently in the evening.

Besides that, mixing these two active ingredients together can cause redness and irritation. Salakai and de Sadeleer share, “Vitamin C and retinol work in different pH environments, which means that they don’t work well together. It's best to avoid combining retinol with vitamin C together as there is a risk of skin irritation and redness, especially for those with sensitive skin.”

2. Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Better known as AHAs, glycolic acid and lactic acid are just a couple of the exfoliating acids you’re likely using in your skincare routine. But why don’t AHAs mix with vitamin C? Essentially, they neutralize the effectiveness of vitamin C and can cause irritation. Mixing two acids doesn’t make a right, that’s why it’s best to “use vitamin C in the morning and an exfoliating formula in the evening,” notes Font.

3. Beta Hydroxy Acids

Similar to the points made about AHAs, beta hydroxy acids (or BHAs) “will destabilize vitamin C, making the active ingredients nearly useless,” share Salakai and de Sadeleer. So that salicylic acid of yours should not be mixed with your vitamin C serum. It won’t be able to help you with discoloration, collagen production, or protect you from UV rays. Additionally, combining the two can cause irritation and dryness.

4. Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide can help you banish breakouts, but it’s not the best match with vitamin C. This is because benzoyl peroxide can oxidize vitamin C, making it ineffective. This is yet another case in which you’d likely want to use vitamin C in the morning and wait to use benzoyl peroxide products in the evening so you don’t cause skin irritation, and so your products can work their magic as intended.

Tips for Using Vitamin C

If you accidentally mix vitamin C with an ingredient it shouldn’t be used with, don’t panic. “Simply rinse off the product(s) with water or a gentle cleanser and reapply correctly,” says Font. “If you are experiencing irritation, keep your skin hydrated and avoid active ingredients until your skin returns to normal.” And don’t forget to visit your dermatologist if things aren’t getting better.

But what if you use a vitamin C serum with a product it shouldn’t be mixed with, and you don’t experience irritation or notice the serum isn’t as effective? That’s totally fine. “Everybody’s skin is different, so some people can use retinoids/retinol and vitamin C together, while some would have redness and irritations,” says Getz. She mentions that if it’s working for you, keep the same skincare routine. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Vitamin C FAQs:

1. Can I use vitamin C with niacinamide? Yes! These two ingredients work well together and both help even skin tone and overall brighten the appearance of skin. If you have particularly sensitive skin or are ever concerned, make sure to check with your dermatologist of the exact ingredients you’re using. This is general advice, so always consult your personal dermatologist when trying new ingredients or mixing them. 

2. What is best paired with vitamin C? More details can be found above, but in short, some great ingredients to pair with vitamin C include niacinamide, sunscreen, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, and peptides.

3. What should you not mix with vitamin C? More details can be found above, but in short, you should not mix vitamin C with AHAs, BHAs, and benzoyl peroxide. 

Final Thoughts

Experts agree that vitamin C is a must-have for your daily skincare regimen. Head over to the IPSY shop to find the best serums and products that work with your routine.