The Retinol Rules: Here’s What You Can and Can’t Mix With the Superstar Ingredient
When it comes to skincare ingredients that help with anti-aging, acne-prone skin, dark spots, enlarged pores, uneven skin texture, and more, it’s no secret that no matter what your skin type or skin goals are, retinol is the queen bee. It’s also no secret that just like a queen bee, the ingredient comes with its own set of nuances, which is why incorporating it into your skincare routine also comes with an adjustment period (including purging), various contraindications, and a host of dos and don'ts. To give you the low down, retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that helps increase cell turnover, pretty much like exfoliation. Thanks to this, the rockstar ingredient helps improve the look of fine lines and wrinkles, builds collagen, helps decrease hyperpigmentation, clears up breakouts, and more—it makes sense why derms recommend retinol all the time.
Using retional comes with a ton of skincare benefits, making adding it to your routine totally worth it (trust us!). The most important part is about making sure you’re using retinol the right way. A big part of this is learning how to make sure your retinol works well with your other skincare ingredients. So, if you’re like us and love the idea of retinol but don’t necessarily know how to incorporate it in your routine, we’ve got a list of derm-approved ingredients that play nice (and not so nice) with retinol.
About the Expert:
Neera Nathan, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist based in Boston, Massachusetts.
1. Skincare Ingredients That Should Not Be Mixed With Retinol
Space Out Your vitamin C
If you love your vitamin C serums as much as we do, you know how transformative the active ingredient can be. Vitamin C is clutch for making our skin glow, brightening dark spots, fighting damage from free radicals, and helping boost collagen among many other benefits. While vitamin C and retinol can be used on the same day, these are two ingredients that you wouldn’t want to sandwich on top of one another. Why? Because the ingredient combination can irritate skin, causing dryness, itchiness, and redness while also making skin extra sensitive to sun exposure. “I generally recommend using vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night. They’re ok to use on the same day, but I wouldn’t recommend layered together within the same routine,” says dermatologist Neera Nathan, MD.
Copper Peptides Are a No-No
We know and love what peptides do for skin, but it turns out that copper peptides (amino acids that help stimulate collagen production also called “Botox in a bottle”) don't play nice when used with retinol either. “If you have sensitive skin, I would avoid layering copper peptides and retinol, but other peptides are generally okay,” says Dr. Nathan. Copper peptides have a propensity to exfoliate the skin, just as retinol does, so using both in combination could increase irritation. Instead, alternate your copper peptides and retinol, using one every other day,
AHAs and BHAs Are Not Retinol’s BFFs
When we think of alpha-hydroxy acids we think of active ingredients like lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, and citric acid. Beta-hydroxy acids include holy grail ingredients like salicylic acid. The common thread? All are considered chemical exfoliants, the key word being “exfoliants.” Because AHAs and BHAs promote skin cell turnover like retinol, it's important not to use them at the same time. “I would avoid applying exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs on the same day you apply retinol,” Dr. Nathan advises. Instead, alternate nights that you use them to prevent irritation, dry skin, and to protect your skin barrier.
Benzoyl Peroxide Belongs On Its Own
“Benzoyl peroxide and retinoids can be used together, but can be a bit irritating for sensitive skin and I would definitely not recommend starting both at the same time,” says Dr. Nathan. Instead, start incorporating benzoyl peroxide once a week on a day that you aren’t using your retinol to give your skin time to adjust and minimize side effects like dryness, skin irritation, peeling, flaking, and redness. Then, you can graduate to using your retinol in the morning and benzoyl peroxide at night.
2. Potential Side-Effects of Misusing Retinol
What happens when you mix ingredients that don’t work well with retinol? While it's clear that irritation is at the top of the list, some other side effects can include increasing your skin’s sensitivity due to over exfoliating, increasing your skin’s sensitivity to UV rays causing sun damage, peeling, flaking, itching, and burning. What should you do if your skin reacts to mixing one of these ingredients with your retinol? “Stop all active ingredients for one week, and use a zinc-based barrier cream (like AVENE Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream orLA ROCHE POSAY Cicaplast Balm B5), one to two times per day to help heal your skin barrier,” recommends Dr. Nathan. If your symptoms persist, always opt for seeing your dermatologist for a treatment plan. To help minimize dryness and skin irritation, it never hurts to up your hydration. “If you have sensitive skin, you can also try a "retinol sandwich" where you apply a layer of moisturizer on before and after retinol application,” advises Dr. Nathan.
3. Ingredients You Can Mix With Retinol
Hyaluronic Acid and Retinol Make a Happy Couple
“Hyaluronic acid can draw water into the skin which is why it works well layered under retinol,” says Dr. Nathan. Cue that “retinol sandwich" because hyaluronic acid acts as a humectant that will help draw in water molecules to counteract dryness caused by retinol, which is why both ingredients benefit each other when used together. The benefit of well-hydrated skin is that it will help your skin adjust to retinol use easier too. Looking for a hyaluronic acid moisturizer that’ll pair well with your retinol? We trust our faces with LANEIGE Water Bank Blue HA Gel Moisturizer.
Ceramides and Zinc Keep Your Skin Barrier Strong
“Light moisturizers, especially those containing ceramides, are great to layer underneath retinol to prevent irritation and barrier creams that contain zinc are great to layer over retinol to help soothe the skin,” adds Dr. Nathan. Ceramides help lock in moisture while keeping your skin barrier protected from external aggressors. Zinc also offers barrier protection, helping your skin adjust to retinol use and minimize dry side effects.
Niacinamide Also Plays Nice
Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, has amazing anti-aging and antioxidant benefits, while also helping improve skin discoloration and calm inflammation. “Niacinamide complements the effects of retinol,” says Dr. Nathan. When looking for a niacinamide skincare product, it's important to look for formulations like serums, moisturizers, and skin boosters that sit on skin rather than cleansers that wash off. “I love niacinamide and retinol. These pair beautifully because niacinamide has calming properties which may help reduce retinol irritation, but also can help fight hyperpigmentation and shrink pore appearance while complementing the effects of retinol. I recommend layering niacinamide underneath retinol,” Dr. Nathan says. We’re fans of KOA LIFE Niacinamide Booster, a topical that you can easily pat on before you apply your retinol.
Bakuchiol and Retinol Can Be Each Other’s Compliments
Bakuchiol has become a pretty big buzzword in the beauty industry as of late. Known for being a “retinol alternative,” Bakuchiol is a strong antioxidant (very similar to vitamin E), that is soothing and helps address the same skin concerns as retinol while being gentle on sensitive skin (with less side effects). Ironically, you can find bakuchiol and retinol paired together in the same skincare products. Why? Because, while both ingredients work toward a similar goal, retinol exfoliates while bakuchiol helps repair, kind of making them a match made in heaven. Looking to try it? PAULA’S CHOICE Clinical 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment has the perfect balance of both.
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